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Perhaps the most photogenic of all the great whales, Humpback Whales are
a pure joy to film. To capture the power and grace of any whale in
mid-air during the split seconds of a breach is one of the greatest
challenges in marine photography. With its’ long pectoral fins and sleek
body the Humpback Whale is, to me, the most spectacular of all the great
whales. Bringing all the variables together that go into a spectacular
breaching image is a matter of persistence, skill, and more than a
little luck. The Humpback images you are viewing are the product of
literally hundreds of hours in and on the water around Humpback Whales. |
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To capture a Humpback Whales’ flukes as they are lifted out of the
water is a special treat. I’m always looking for that water dripping off
the flukes, that perfect negative space and of course the perfect light.
The best images are usually very early in the morning or very late in
the evening when the sun is low on the horizon. Sometimes Humpbacks will
throw their flukes entirely out of the water in a series of displays
called “tail-slapping”. There are many variations on this theme as the
whale may lay on its’ back, side, or stomach while throwing its’ flukes.
Some animals seem to try for height and other animals like to throw
their entire bodies sideways out of the water. The water cascading off
the body and the incredible splash the flukes make when they hit the
water offer great photographic opportunities. TIPS FOR HUMPBACK WHALE
PHOTOS: Patience, patience, and more patience! Time on the water is
essential for good Humpback images. When filming breaches, head-lunges,
or tail-slaps you will need a very fast shutter speed (1/750th of a
second or faster) to stop the motion of these giant animals. Long and
fast lenses are the order of the day. I prefer both a 300mm f2.8 and a
70-200mm f2.8 with a 1.4 Tele extender. Because shutter speed is so
crucial, I almost never use any type of filter that would cut the amount
of light reaching the film (no polarizing filters). Because deck
vibrations are transmitted to the camera I also rarely use a tripod or
monopod when filming whales while underway. I prefer to handhold the
camera and lens so I can react quickly to any fast breaking action.
While filming in northern latitudes, be prepared for rain and moisture,
protect your equipment appropriately. In sunny tropical waters I like to
use Fuji Velvia ISO 50. There is usually plenty of reflected light in
these waters so you can get away with the slower film. In Alaska and
other high latitude feeding areas you will need a much faster film. Why?
The water is dark, the backdrop is also usually much darker (often
foggy, or with a light drizzle). I prefer to use Fuji Provia RDPIII ISO
100 in these situations. I often find that I need to push the film a
full stop in order to get the shutter speeds I like. |